CoinSite Home
CoinSite Buyers - Click here to sell your coins for immediate payment!
 
      
Looking for something specific? 

Any word All the words Exact phrase

The Coin Doc's Answers

Archive # 61     Press Ctrl+F to Search This Page

Return to the Coin Doc's Answer Archive Menu

Name:        Sylvia Smith
Email Address:   srs29@alltel.net
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        I have an 1854 half dollar coin and I am trying to find out its worth. On the front is a person sitting on a rock with stars surrounding it. It also has arrows on either side of 1854. On the back is an eagle with arrows in his feet. I recently came across this coin and would like to know its worth. If possible could you help me or direct me to a website that might be able to help?    Thank You!

You can see extensive historical information about Seated Liberty half dollars at the CoinSite's History of U.S. Coins. Value of coins depends very much on grade (condition). 1854 Seated Half dollars bring from $10 - $600+ depending on actual grade.

For a discussion on grading characteristics see the FAQ and the article on U.S. Coin Grading.

For references to Seated Liberty Half dollars, click here . To see examples of Seated Half dollars for sale see Sellcoins.com and search for Seated Half. To see images of famous Seated Half dollars see The CoinSite Image Gallery.


From: Jeff & Taffy Kelley
subject: Large Size U.S. Paper Money.
--------------------------------------------------------
What can you tell us about these notes?

Your first two notes are 1922 series United States $10 and $20 gold certificates. These notes are still legal tender for their face value but haven't been payable in gold coin since 1933.  Their physical size is much larger than the notes made after 1928 are often called "horse blanket" notes by collectors.  The notes are low grade and look to be in about VG-Fine condition.  Approximate Value: $20 - $100, $10 - $75

The third note was part of the National Banking System that was began after the Civil War to standardize and gain

acceptance for paper money.  The note is a $20, 1902 series, Third Charter period,  issued on the Merchants & Planters National Bank of Slacauga, Alabama, Charter #7484.  Approximate value: $150 in VG-Fine grade.

For more references about paper money, access the CoinSite Search Tool here
Comments:        Good site/informative
Name:        Bob Sanchez
Email Address:   bob80915@peoplepc.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        I have several friends going to banks asking for rolls of 2002 pennies - saying they are going to be rare.  I have read that the US mint cut the amount of copper it is going to buy for coins, and read that the US Mint is trying to cut the production of cents, as it is costing them .7 cents to produce a penny.  I have read that the US Mint is laying people off- are people counting on a greatly limited production of pennies this year?  I have not read any real proof that pennies will be in short supply this year.  have you heard anything?   I see rolls of pennies selling on e-bay and Yahoo auction sites for 3.00/roll- on the average.

  Urban Legend! Current U.S. cents are minted on zinc blanks that are copper plated so copper isn't an issue. New issues are scarce until they reach circulation and those that want immediate gratification will pay a premium for the current year's coinage.

The real issue is that the Philadelphia Mint has closed temporarily until they bring up their work place to OSHA standards. They should resume production by the end of March 2002. This short closing will not limit the production of billions of cents that are produced each year.
Comments:        I've found answers to questions that I've been tied up on for years.
Name:        Jason Russell
Email Address:   deh@ns.sympatico.ca
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        I have a 1965 Churchill coin. My question is how do I know if it is the "satiny" version or the regular version? My picture of Churchill is soft without distinct lines around his neck and collar. It kind of looks like it has been buffed down.

It sounds like a coin that was "whizzed", that is, wire brushed by someone. The only valuable issue is the specimen which has a satin finish.  Note that the specimen is in higher relief and sharper detail than the regular issue. If you still believe you have a specimen, you can send it to the American Numismatic Association for authentication.  See their link on the CoinSite Links page.
Name:        Chad Veillette
Email Address:   clicker73@home.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        My 9 year old son was given various coins recently by an older gentleman that does his banking at the bank where my wife works. One coin in particular caught my attention. On the front side of the coin there is a a man with a toga on, and inscribed around the edges are "R.IMP.HU.BO.REG." and "M.THERESIA.D.G" and below the picture it has the initials "S.F." On the back of the coin it has a picture of two falcons or eagles behind a shield and a crown above their head. Around the back of the is inscribed "BURG.CO.TRY.1780.X" and "ARCHID.AVST.DUX."

I have two pictures I scanned of both the sides of the coin if you would like to see them. The coin is silver. I was curious what you would be able to tell me about the coin.

 Maria Theresa Thalers in the form of a "restrike", like your coin, are the longest running production silver trade unit in history. They were originally struck in Austria but are currently  struck in Turkey, all with the same date, 1780.

You can purchase these individually or in bags of 1000. Original Maria Theresa Thalers are quite different. Approximate value: about US $4.


Name:        Tanya Cain
Email Address:   caint1@msn.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        Why is the penny not silver like the other coins? Why is Lincoln turned the opposite direction from the presidents on other coins?

The United States has not made 90% silver coins since 1964. The current coins are either copper plated zinc, in the case of the cent, and copper-nickel in the nickel, dime, quarter and half dollar. The Sacagawea dollar has a bit of manganese added to give it its distinctive color.

At one time, money was precious metal not paper currency and all but the lowest denominations were either gold or silver. The cent was too low a value to be struck in silver (the precious metal content would have exceeded its face value) and was accepted for small transactions and for making change. Prior to 1858 the cent was almost the size of a half dollar. This was an attempt to make the cent have intrinsic value as the coin's content had about one cents worth of copper. The rising price of copper forced the government to make cents the size they are today. Note that copper was abandoned for the cent in 1982 for the same reason.

To learn about "facing heads" on coins, click here.


Name:        Brendan
Email Address:   cuffb01@tartarus.uwa.edu.au
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:         I've had this one coin since I was 10 years old and recently it has come out of the storage box and back into my life again. I was hoping you could identify it and it's value for me as I am completely and utterly ignorant of such matters myself (seriously!!). Here's a description:

Head side A side view of a man's face with the inscription "Koenig Von Bayern" and "Ludwig III" This side has an odd sort of stripe across the man's face where the metal (my dad says it's silver??) has discoloured in a much lighter way. The mintmark is a D (indicates Munich?).

Head side The inscription "Deusches Reich 1914" "Funf Mark" and an illustration of a bird/gryphon? wearing a wreath of some sort, a shield across its chest and a crown above it's head.

The rim of the coin has something written on it as well, but all I can make out is "Gott...Mit.." Speaking as someone totally ignorant of such things I could say the coin is in semi-reasonable condition- It has coloured/tarnished a little bit (except for the odd stripe across the head side) and it also has a few points along the rim where it has been dropped or maybe even cut/nicked (it is uneven).

Thank you for any help you can give,

You have a 1914D Bavaria (German State) 5 marks. D =Munich Mint The coin weighs 27.777 grams, is .900 fine silver (content .8038 of a troy ounce pure).

The Coin features a bearded King Ludwig III facing left. The legend around, LUDWIG III KOENIG VON BAYERN (Ludwig III, King of Bavaria). The reverse shows a crowned eagle with outstretched wings, the legend around is DEUTCHES REICH 1914 FUNF MARK (German Empire 1914 Five Marks)

The coin has a lettered edge but I'm not sure which legend is inscribed on this piece. A typical examples from this period is Mit Gottes Hulfe (With G-d's help).

Coins are valued on the rarity and condition (grade). Depending on condition, the coin brings between $15 for a damaged or low grade piece to about $150 for one in EF (Extremely Fine) with only a trace of wear. Uncirculated examples bring $200+. The stripe across the face on your example was caused by a strip of some neutral material lying on the coin. The rest of the coin patinated over time leaving the protected area white.
Comments:        I find it a very valuable source of information for a
coin collector. We just started collecting coins, but will be using this
site on a regular basis.                   
Name:        Susie
Email Address:   slaph6709@aol.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        Hi,
      My son recently bought a Morgan Dollar. We know very little about coins and need to know how you can tell a counterfeit from a real one. Any information you can give us will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Susie

This is not an easy answer to give in this column. People who study counterfeit detection study genuine coins first and learn the diagnostics for dies. You have to be intimate with the coining process to even get started.

Most counterfeit coins are either die struck from copy dies (dies made from coins) or are electro-spark or cast copies. All counterfeit types have particular characteristics usually only detectable by an expert. There are also genuine coins altered to appear as rare dates by tooling or adding or removing mint marks or other characteristics that make a particular coin rare.

The best way to learn this craft is to first join the American Numismatic Association (see the CoinSite Links page for the address). They offer information and examples of coins they have recently observed in a column in their monthly journal as well as general information about coins. They also offer subscriptions to their counterfeit detection manuals and also offer summer seminars in counterfeit detection. Most collectors and dealers are members and it is the first stop for numismatic knowledge. They also offer courses and information for children and have a junior section in the monthly journal.

Those that do not want to get that involved should only buy certified coins, certified by NGC, PCGS, SEGS or ANACS. Those coins are guaranteed to be genuine.
Comments:        This is the first time I'm using the Coin Doctors' site.
Name:        danny
Email Address:   hotchoo@aol.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:
  dear coin Doc
I have a coin from 1837 approximately the size of a half dollar. It appears to be made of copper. On the front there is a girl and it reads E. pluribus unum on top and the date (1837) on the bottom. The back reads bentonian currency, mint drop, and the date once again. If your familiar with the coin could you please tell me a little bit about it.

The era of the late 1830's into the 1840's was a period of economic depression in the U.S. (see the Coinsite Search Tool and search for "Andrew Jackson" to learn more) . The battle was between proponents of the Bank of the United States, a private institution and President Andrew Jackson who wanted to abolish it. Many privately issued tokens were struck to take the place of hoarded Federal money. These "hard times" tokens also became political propaganda instruments.

The "Mint Drops" were hard money advocates and "Bentonian Currency" refers to Senator Thomas Hart Benton, a supporter of President Jackson's hard money policies. This substitute for a U.S. large cent was a statement of hard money versus unbacked, inflating paper money (sarcastically called "shinplasters" as they were "only good for stuffing in your socks to keep warm in the winter" that were issued by the private, Bank of the United States).

"Hard Times" Tokens are popularly collected as they have interesting designs and tell the story of the economic struggles of this era. As with coins, condition and variety play and important role in value.

The 1837 token is 28 mm in diameter. There are two major varieties. The token is also known with the date 1838 and 1841. Approximate value Range: Good - EF US $3 - $60. Uncirculated pieces are rare: range $300 -$400.
Comments:        Awesome. Like having a good friend who is a numismatist! The coin Doc makes me feel like the answer to the hardest question are only an email away.
Name:        Tom
Email Address:   tombolo55@yahoo.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        Dear Doctor,
    I recently purchased a 1879 $20 gold liberty Head coin. The coin was sold thru a popular auction to me as an AU grade coin. I have been looking for a gold coin with a good date and price. I paid $347.50.

When I got the coin I noticed that the coin had very good eye appeal and that the coin had minimal wear. However upon more intricate review I noticed that the coin has been cleaned. The cleaning was truly expertly done. The whiz marks were barely noticeable.The coin under most guides runs for $675 in the AU grade. Does the coin have an intrinsic value left if it has been professionbally cleaned. The coin is a real pretty coin yet you can notice under magnification the areas that were cleaned. I hope you can shed some light on this matter.

I purchased the coin prior to reading the 10 rules of coin purchasing never buy anything over $300 that hasn't been properly graded. Is their any easy test I can do to prove the gold content besides the size,weight eye appeal without injuring coin. I am aware of chemical tests but I think they will devalue the coin even if done on the reeded edge. I am also aware of the specific gravity test but does exposing the coin to water represent any danger to the coin. I appreciate your expertise and any help you can afford. Thank you for your time and concern with my coins!
Sincerely,
TOM D

Your coin may have been cleaned but if you are not expert at this it is easy to mistake die scratches (which are raised lines) for cleaning (incuse in the coin). "whizzing" with a wire brush leaves circular scratches in the surface that are immediately apparent to an expert as this treatment leaves an unnatural luster on the surface of the coin. This type of deceptive technique is hardly ever done to just one part of the coin. The whole coin is whizzed.

Most cleaning techniques, including whizzing, simply moves metal. Therefore the original standards for the coin and its gold content are usually intact. U.S. gold $20 coins contain .9675 of a troy ounce of pure gold (at $300 gold the gold content would equal about $290).

A specific gravity test in water does not harm gold coins (that is why gold is a precious metal, it is virtually inert). Maybe the saying "you get what you pay for" is appropriate as you paid less than VF money for the coin. I suggest you send the coin to a third party grading service such as NGC or PCGS to get your coin evaluated.

Maybe it is a score and you just don't know it. If it comes back as cleaned or whizzed you can always complain to the auction house if it was a mail bid since you relied on their expertise and description. Floor bid sales assume you've looked at the thing before the sale and will refuse to refund your money. Even if it is cleaned you should easily get 10% or 15% above melt for it, about what you paid.
Name:        Robert
Email Address:   roberth@reliablelogistics.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        I have a conterfeit 1652 Massachusetts Willow Shilling. My question is..."does a counterfeit of the original coin hold any value". I have heard that some counterfeits can be valuble. Is this the case with this coin?

No, some counterfeits by famous counterfeiters such as the 18th century, Carl Wilhelm Becker are salable because of his notorious biography and his high degree of skill.  Most counterfeits are rarely desirable therefore they have little market value.
Comments:        Cool site and informative. Name:        Joe Nulph
Email Address:   cdnjn@nb.net
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        What would the value of a set of three 20 dollar bills be if they were consecutive sereal numbers in mint uncirculated condition(1985) The middle bill has no printing on the back side. The other bills are complete as the printing goes.

Currency sheets are arranged so that when they are cut vertically the serial numbers in each stack are consecutive. Sheets are printed three times. First the back is printed, then the front and the serial numbers and treasury seal.

You have a note that came from a sheet missing the first printing. Having consecutive notes are a plus. Condition is everything in coins and currency so that any bends or folds made in the paper reduce its market value.

A group of three 1985 consecutive FRN notes, the middle one missing the first print and in CU (uncirculated condition) would bring approximately $300.

For more information about currency errors see the CoinSite Paper Money Errors Page .
Name:        Margaret Staruch
Email Address:   Mommystar4@aol.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        What is the name of the Indian on the 1913 Buffalo head nickel and what tribe was he from? It's for my daughter's history project.
Thank you

The Indian on the Buffalo Nickel is a composite portrait of three chiefs who were still alive at the time the design was created by James Earle Fraser. The chiefs were Iron Tail, General George Custer's opponent at Little Big Horn, Two Moons and John Big Tree. 

The portrait is easily identified as a Native American, but by design, it cannot be associated with any particular tribe. It was the second appearance of an Indian on a U.S. Coin (the first was the Indian on the 1908-29 gold $2 1/2 and $5 coins). The latest is Sacagawea on the current U.S. dollar coin.
Comments:        I am thinking about starting to collect coins, and I found
this site very useful in finding information on a lot of different areas.
Name:        Chip Moore
Email Address:   cmoore73@yahoo.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        I recently found a 1966 Washington Quarter that is about .015" to .020" thicker than a normal quarter.  I think that is a thick planchet error, but I am not sure.  First of all how thick does a quarter have to be in order to be " too thick " and if this is in fact an error, then how can I find a value for this coin.  Ironically, the only reason that I kept this coin is because the pop machine at wortk wouldnt take it.

All clad quarters weigh the same, 5.67 grams. There are no "thick or thin" planchets since all blanks are cut from the same prescribed strip. What can be different is the height of the rim and that is what you are measuring. Rim height is the result of striking pressure. It is possible for the pressure of a given coin press to be too high causing the rims to be taller. This is checked fairly often on the floor of the mint as too high a striking pressure causes the dies to wear prematurely.

Another example of really excessive die height is a "die cap". This is caused by a coin which has stuck to the die and has been struck as if it where the die face. The height of the rims resembles a thimble. These rarely get out of the mint but when they do, they are a spectacular prize for an error collector (I once saw an Eisenhower dollar the size of a small cup at a private tour of the Denver Mint. The die cap dollar was in the mint's private error collection).
Comments:        Definately a GREAT site!
Name:        Jim Talbott
Email Address:   jimtalbott@hotmail.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        Hello. I have been trying to track down information on a rather strange 22gram (+-) 100 Corona. It appears to be a fake of a normal 1915 Corona. However I've been asking around, and no-one has ever heard of this particular coin ever being faked. Also, it definately looks like it was machine struck, and is completly convincing, except for the rather spectacular weight difference. It seems that someone might have gone to a great deal of trouble to fake this coin, and left a rather easy way to identify it as a fake. Could there be some other possibility? HELP! :)

The 1915 100 Corona is a "restrike" of a coin that never existed (there is no original 1915 Austria 100 Corona). The Austrian government created this coin to be used as a bullion coin, that is, a convenient way to own gold and it prevents collectors from being conned into buying it as a collector coin. It also circumvented the ban against owning gold in the U.S. that was in effect from 1933- 1974(?) since coins minted prior to 1933 were legal to own.

The bullion 100 Corona contain .98 of a troy ounce of pure gold and weighs 33.88 grams (90% of which is gold). Bullion dealers work on a very small spread (from 1-3%) since the coins have no numismatic value.

Fakes of bullion coins were commonly made in the Middle East, primarily at the Beirut Mint which had a state-of-the-art facility. The coins are very well made but are often underweight. The Beirut Mint was famous for fakes of British Sovereigns, French and Swiss 20 Franks, the entire Corona series and United States gold coins as well as a great deal of other coins. The missing gold gave the sellers a huge windfall.

Bullion dealers and numismatists know how to tell the difference often by checking the die work. The work is good enough to fool most novices.

Browse more of the COIN DOC's Answer Archives 

Ask the Coin Doc - Copyright © 1997-2007 Robert S. Koppelman, Stan Klein & ROKO Design Group, Inc. All rights reserved.

CoinSite Home

Copyright 1997-2008 ROKO Design Group, Inc. All rights reserved.