The Coin Doc's Answers

You have a Morocco 10 Franc coin. The date "1371" in the Moslem date and is approximately equivalent to 1951 in the Gregorian Calendar. It is easy for us to forget that other cultures measure date differently. The most rigid mind set question I ever was asked was why B.C. wasn't put on ancient Greek coins.

What you have are civil war "store cards". These tokens were used to alleviate the shortage of small change that plagued commerce during the Civil War in The North. There are Washington Motifs as well as tokens that looked like Indian cents or ones that just stated that they were "good for" merchandise at a particular establishment.

It seems that you stumbled upon a small hoard of these wonderful tokens. They are very collectable and can bring from a few dollars for the most commonly seen pieces to hundreds of dollars for the rarer types.

Interestingly, the "one cent" pieces were frowned upon by the government as they were essentially counterfeit money and as we all know, only the government can do that . The manufacturers of the 'one cent' tokens added the word "not" to mollify the government agents. So, you may also find coins labeled "not one cent" in your collection.

Though average circulated but undamaged 1917 cents will bring 10c or so. There is a rare doubled die variety with a slightly doubled date (view other answers about doubled dies below or search this page with your browser) that will bring $50 and up.

I have discovered an old coin amongst some others I have been collecting over the years. It has written on it "BRITANNIA" AND DATED 1797 on the "front" and "GEORGE ?" AND ? REX? on the reverse.
Can you pls assist in identifying the country of origin and also if the coin is of any value......as you can tell from my description it is somewhat worn.....but so would you be after 200 years.!!!!
Regards Bill C.

It sounds like either the penny or twopence of Great Britain. Both are fairly hefty coins with legends incuse on the rim. The portrait is of George III, the opponent that the United States fought for its independence. The legends are in Latin and say GEORGIUS III DEI GRATIA REX (George III by the grace of G-d King). The legend continues on the reverse - BRITANNIA (Britain). The dated side shows Britannia seated on a rock, a shield leaning on the rock and Britannia holding a trident (symbol of the sea) in her left hand.

The 1981 Royal Wedding Commemorative crown (25p) was popular with the public and was made in large numbers and distributed by Banks in England. Though there is more interest now that the Princess is gone, there is plenty of these to go around. The copper-nickel issues worth about US$1, issued in a plastic bank envelope, CuNi specimen, issued in a Royal Mint folder, about US$3.00 and the silver (sterling) proof, in the case of issue, about US$25.

No mint mark means it was minted in Philadelphia. It's a common coin in circulated condition.

About $8 in circulated grades. Gem uncirculated examples are scarce and bring far more!

The coins should be clearly dated. The double headed imperial eagle is a common design motif on 19th century Russian coins of the 1, 2, 5 and 10 kopek denominations. These coins also circulated in Poland as this country was under Russian or German control at one time or another. If you can't see the date or the denomination the coin is worn indeed. Not much value in such a low state of preservation but these coins sure are interesting.

Is there such a thing called the Kennedy Dollar, if so what is it. I was told it was a dollar minted after his death and included the date of his death on it?

Only a half dollar with Kennedy's profile was created as a memorial. This coin was first struck in 1964 in 90% silver, then struck in 40% clad silver from 1965-1970, and has been minted since 1971in a copper-nickel clad composition. There is no United States Kennedy dollar.

Dimes, quarters and half dollars are made in a clad "sandwich". The outer layers are .750 copper and .250 nickel bonded to a pure copper core. Occasionally, part of the strip that is used to cut coin blanks loses the outer layers. The reasons for this are many, but if gas or dirt comes in between the clad layer and the copper they won't bond correctly.

Coins struck from these defective planchets are underweight but genuine. They classify as a lamination error and collectors will pay a premium of $6 and up for one like you have described.

You have a plated dime, probably done for some commercial purpose. This was not plated and the Mint and therefore would be considered by many collectors as an "altered" coin. Though gold plated coins are fun, the plating does little to increase the coin's value.

The only coin struck under the Confederacy was a prototype half dollar struck at the New Orleans Mint. The obverse was the taken from the existing Union dies and has the familiar Seated Liberty design with the date 1861. The reverse was struck from a new die that shows CONFEDERATE STATES OF AMERICA surrounding a shield with a Liberty cap above. Only four of these were ever struck. The metal was the same as the original Union coin, 90% silver.

Three of the specimens were given to respectively, Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederacy, Prof J. L riddell of the University of Louisiana and Dr. E. Ames of New Orleans. The fourth specimen was kept by the Chief Coiner, B.F. Taylor who, in 1879, sold it to J.W. Scott and Company of New York.

Scott acquired 500 regular Union Struck 1861-O half dollars, planned off the reverses and restruck them with the Confederate reverse die. These are identified by the slightly damaged obverse caused by the restriking. There also exists 500 Scott tokens struck with the Confederate reverse.

There are no other half dollars associated with The Confederate States of America. Of the years, there have been all kinds of souvenirs made to commemorate CSA but all of these are private fabrications, including some non-coinage metal concoctions in lead and white metal. Since they lack the historical perspective of "having been there" have little or no collector value.

You probably paid too much! There seems to be enough of these "cash" coins for every sentient being in the galaxy. Though there are some major rarities, especially in the larger size pieces most are just plain fun and are a painless way to introduce yourself to Chinese numismatics.

Comments: I think it is a great site.
Email Address: lyonsm@diana.hollins.edu
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Your Name: Meg lyons
Your Question: I was watching the TITANIC and in the movie the heroine tosses a dime to the hero and it looks like a modern dime. The movie is supposed to take place in 1914, did the dimes look the same then as they do today? I know they must have been changed a little because Roosevelt is on the dime now, but what about shape and size?

It would have been a Barber dime, called so after the designer Charles E. Barber. The obverse portrayed a bust of Liberty facing right and the reverse a wreath surrounding ONE DIME. It was identical in size and weight to the later Mercury and Roosevelt dimes minted in silver. The Barber dimes were minted from 1892 to 1916.

Condition and type are important for value. If you would like to try your hand at attributing the coins, try the public library and ask for a world coin catalog. If you feel the collection might be valuable, pay a professional numismatist to give you a written evaluation. You can then market the coins near their actual value. You should be able to get +-10% of a written appraisal.

Mint sets, that is mint packaged sets of regular business strike coins, are sold by the U.S. mint in the year of issue. Earlier years are often stocked by most coin dealers. Often, the price is cheaper than the issue price. Go to our Numismatic Links page and click on the U.S. Mints Web page to see their current offerings.

There exists a doubled die of this date. Minor doubled dies seem to be prevalent but these minor die varieties don't bring the excitement that the severe die errors of 1955 or 1972 do. They are still very collectable and certainly interesting but don't get caught up in a promotion that drives up the price of the more common examples.

Any retired ice cream men out there? I want mine filled with Barber Dimes and Standing Liberty Quarters. Anyone know a source for these wonderful devices?

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Your Name: Eduardo Watson
Your Question: It would like to evaluate a coin of gold of twenty dollars of 1899
Thank you, Eduardo Watson  

Whether you coin is Philadelphia or San Francisco Mint doesn't matter for this date. The value would depend solely on the condition (grade). Average circulated pieces are worth 5%-10% over gold value (.9675 x price of gold)x 1.05. Uncirculated pieces, that is in new condition, no wear, would bring much more.

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Your Name: Stephen Lynch
Your Question: I'm interested in purchasing a Certified 1908-29 Quarter Eagle $2.50 Gold Piece as a investment. I would like to pay no more than $450. for the coin. What grade and year would be the best choice.

The Indian Quarter Eagle series is one of the few gold series that one can complete without totally breaking the bank. Only fifteen coins make up the set with only the 1911-D being a rare date. You should be able to buy a graded MS62 for under $350 but I'm not a big fan of the MS62 grade. It would be better to buy an MS63 though it would cost close to $700. If this is out of the question, buy an nice sharp EF. Those can be had for $150 or less.

Comments: first real link to the words looking for
Email Address: della@cyberhighway.net
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Your Name: della m
Your Question: a coin the size of a dime one side reads "ten centavos filipinas" other side reads united states of america 1944

The United States administered the Philippines from 1898 to the end of WW II in 1945 when they received their independence. All of their coinage was produced in at either the Manila, Denver or San Francisco Mints. All coins of the above period will have UNITED STATES OF AMERICA on the coin. The 1944 10 centavos has a "D" mint mark and was struck in large numbers, in .750 silver, in order to replace the coinage removed by the Japanese Occupiers. There is only one more year, 1945, that the U.S. title appears on Philippine coinage. Value for this common piece - about 50 cents.

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Your Name: Gail Klie
Your Question: I've found a 1936 Indian Head nickel. I know it isn't worth much (which I found out by searching your site!), but I was wondering if I should look for any distinguishing characteristics that might make it more valuable. Any information you can provide would be great! Thanks!

There are two varieties that are worth looking for:

1. 1936-D Polished reverse die - This is similar to the 1937 3 leg buffalo but the right front leg is only partially polished off the die. This has developed considerable interest recently but the die variety seems to be very rare. Only twenty are currently known to exist. There should be more out there to find.
2. 1936-D with a repunched mint mark - Many collectors forget that mint marks were punched into the working dies by hand. Some one, probably bleary eyed from a weekend of partying, punched this mint mark in twice. The second punch is considerably to the right of the first. This seems to be fairly easy to find and brings far more than a common circulated normal example.

Comments: Great site, great info, well organized.
Email Address: jbuchana@texas.net
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Your Name: jody buchanan
Your Question: Okay, I am finally going to organize all the coins my dad and I have gathered over the years. I want to know if they should be cleaned before putting in the coin holders, or left in current condition. I am a novice numismatic, but would like to organize and preserve the coins for my kids. Could you advise on cleaning and some storage tips?? thanks, jody

Don't clean the coins. Use Mylar flips and dustless information cards to write them up. Store them in double row boxes. These supplies should be available from your local coin dealer or check any of the coin newspapers such as Coin World, World Coin News, Numismatic News or The Bank Note Reporter.

Comments: Great!
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Your Name: Rick Michels
Your Question: I have two questions really. One, I would like to know what is the best method for cleaning coins. I thought I read somewhere that lighter fluid (?) was good to use. Second I have a Indian Head Cent that is an error and I can't find any information about it specifically. It has a regular die on the obverse and is smooth and has no die on the reverse.

Lighter fluid or nuclear weapons - both will damage your coins and maybe even you. Please don't play with dangerous stuff. Coin collecting is suppose to be a safe hobby. Trying to turn a AG coin into a MS65 example of another denomination is a trick best left to magicians. The coin is the coin. If you don't like it, get another example that suits you better.

Your one sided Indian cent is one sided because:
A - Someone planned off the reverse in a machine shop (more common than you think)
B - Something came between the coin and the die when it was struck. Most of the time, that something leaves a visible mark or impression on the blank side. If nothing is visible see A.

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Your Name: bob towry
Your Question: I inherited a set of coins. I do wish to sell them. What is the best way to:
1. Determine the value range
2. Sell them (avoid the retail to wholesale sale)
I am in Texas. The coin set is mint Royal Canadian Mint 1992 Commemorative set, silver, 10 coins? Seems complete. In box, etc.

Unfortunately, these modern proof sets are fairly easy to come by. They are produced in numbers large enough to make some money for the issuing mint. These are non-circulating, which means that all the sets minted will probably still exist long into the future. Though these modern sets sell often sell for less than the issue price in the secondary market, check out the Canadian Royal Mint web site to see what their current offerings cost. Click here to go to the Numismatic Links Page.

Comments: Great - informational site for the numismaticaly impaired.
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Your Name: Stephen Lynch
Your Question: I recently purchase a number of wheat back lincoln cents from a dealer on the internet, many were represented as MS 60 to 65. My question is how can you tell if a coin was modified to improve the grade. I have looked at some of the thru a 40X microscope and detected many fine lines. How do you tell if the mint put them there or if someone else did to improve the coins grade.

There are several kinds of lines one might see on a coin's surface:

• Flow Lines - These are the result of the tremendous pressure exerted on the flan when it is struck. The lines flow in a radial pattern from the center of the coin to the edges.
• Die Polish - Coin dies need to be removed from the press and rubbed with a diamond dust impregnated cloth to remove debris and to keep the die surfaces smooth. Die polish usually appears as short raised lines on the coin.
• Scratches from cleaning - When a coin is cleaned, fine scratches can be seen on the coin. Because they are inside the coin instead of raised, like die polish, they seem to appear and disappear depending on the angle the coin is viewed at when under strong light. Another way to tell is to check weather these marks appear to cross from the devices into the field.

40x power is a bit much for grading coins, a 4x slide glass would do better as you can see the whole coin at once. This is most important for purposes of any coin evaluation.

Comments: I don't see a place to get current coin values. That'd be helpful. Articles and faq are good.
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Your Name: Michael Medwid
Your Question: In 1970 at age 10 I started being interested in coins when I stumbled on an 1826 large cent. In detail it was (and is) in extra fine condition - very little if any ware. However it is black presumably from being exposed to the elements for some time. In 1970 it was worth $50. Being 10 years old it felt like I'd discovered the wealth of China. Today I'd kind of like to polish up the old large cent so it's features are more visible. I think at most it's worth $150 - correct? Even if it knocked a 1/3 of its value off - it still might be worth the fun of getting the conversation piece. What's the best way to do this if I'm willing to accept the impact?

Cleaning the coin would destroy almost all of its numismatic value. Collectors won't pay for stripped examples. Once damaged the coin would only appeal to those not able to afford undamaged coins.

The color of large cents depends on the impurities in the copper. It the early days of the Mint, before 1815, the only good copper came from Britain. Many of the coins were terribly porous, some toned black. This problem still plagued cent production even in the 1820's. You would do better leaving the coin alone and buying another example with less patina.

Check out our Numismatic Links Page. There are links to many places that supply current coin prices.

Comments: I like your site very much. This is my second visit. Email Address: cloyd@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu
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Your Name: Bryan Cloyd
Your Question: I have a Nova Scotia one penny token dated 1840. The name "G.P.Neill" is counterstamped across Queen Victoria's face, which I assume was done to convert the penny to a merchant's token. Does this counterstamp increase or decrease the coin's value? Thanks.

It depends on who you are showing the coin to. Some collectors consider counterstamped coins to be mutilated coinage. I and others appreciate the fact that the coin, once counterstamped, has been transformed into another entity and consider the counterstamp, at the least, not detracting from the coin's value.

Comments: I think it is great that a site is available for people like me to go to for questions they may have about money.
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Your Name: Nancy Smithson
Your Question: I have a German bill that is ( ein zwanzigtausend mark) 20,000 mark. It dates back to 1923 and has red, green and black colors on it. It is in good condition. I was wandering what it would go for as a collector's item and where or who I should contact. Any information would be appreciated. Thank-you very much!

This note was part of the great inflation in Germany in 1922-1923. By the time that it was over, Germany was printing Trillion mark notes. There are lots of collectors for these notes, but many of the issues, like yours are very inexpensive - less than a dollar. There are a few rare issues, mostly ones printed toward the end of the crises that were only briefly issued.

Comments: I was looking for someone to answer my question. I think this is GREAT (.)(!)
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Your Name: willard reeves
Your Question: Is it possible that there is a 1955 doubled die lincoln cent in the GRADE of PROOF ?

Doubled dies are improperly made dies. A new die is struck several times by the master hub; if there is any rotation, parts or all of the design can show misalignment or doubling. Because the dies are struck multiple times to impress the design deeply in the metal, minor doubling is fairly common and virtually unnoticeable except under magnification. Note that every coin struck with a doubled die is identical.

Though many dies are used to strike coins in any given year, only one of the 1955 dies was terribly flawed. It is amazing that no one noticed the obviously doubled obverse image until the coins were already outside the Mint. Note that there are other minor doubled dies from this year.

Since modern proof dies are made differently and the resulting coins are struck one-at-a-time and examined for flaws, it is much less likely that such an obvious defect would go undetected on proofs. To my knowledge there are no 1955 double die proofs. By the way, proof is not a grade but a method of manufacture.

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Your Name: Dan Kang
Your Question: i have a 1942 quarter. i weighed it against one of the newer ones, and the 1942 one weighs more. is the 1942 quarter all silver?

The 1942 quarter is .900 pure silver and .100 copper and weighs 6.25 grams. The copper-nickel quarter, minted from 1965 to the present, has an outer layer of .750 copper and .250 nickel and an inner layer of pure copper and weighs 5.67 grams.