The Coin Doc's Answers

Comments:        Great site, keep up the good work.
Name:        Art Dustman
Email Address:   artdustman@home.net
-------------------------------------------------------
Question:        While metal detecting recently, I came across a 1795 flowing hair, half dollar in decent shape. I took it to a coin dealer to find out it's value but when the dealer looked at it he said it was a counterfiet. He also stated it was made in 1795. The coin has some pitting, (probably from being in the ground for two hundred years in clay), and this is what he made his determination on. Did anybody counterfeit 1795 half dollars, and why? It doesn't seem to make sense to take the time and trouble to counterfeit such a small denomination coin. Thanks for your time, looking forward to hearing from you.

While I've never personally seen a contemporary counterfeit of a 1795 half dollar, I have seen deceptive modern fakes. Genuine pieces are valuable even in low grade thus the motivation to the counterfeiter. There are also various die varieties that have can have an effect on market value.

My suggestion is to send the coin to The American Numismatic Association for authentication or alternatively you can have the coin authenticated and graded by NGC or PCGS (see the CoinSite Links Page).

The process of authenticating a coin first requires knowing the characteristics of an original example. You have to know what designs were used for a particular issue, how they were rendered and minted and how the dies and punches were prepared, the normal results of striking pressure such as the appearance of flow lines and the weight of the original coin.

Counterfeiters use techniques like casting, electro-spark tracing or creating dies from genuine business strikes. These techniques are identifiable by a trained numismatist.

Some copies are not counterfeits at all but tokens made for some other purpose.  For example, there are modern version of California gold fractionals that have design elements that were never on the original pieces (such as bears or other animals).

For more information about counterfeit detection see the American Numismatic Association site available on the CoinSite Links Page.

You have a "Hard Times" token from the Jacksonian era. There were hundreds of privately issued tokens that attempted to make up for the coin shortages during this period. They were not only money but a means to spread political propaganda or advertising messages.  (For more information about these interesting tokens and the Jacksonian era, click here ).

There are several varieties of  "Webster Credit" tokens and represents Daniel Webster's advocacy of renewing the charter of the Bank of The United States in opposition to President Jackson. It features a clipper ship with the word CONSTITUTION on its side, surrounded by the legend *WEBSTER* CREDIT 1841 CURRENT (or CURRENCY on some varieties).  The reverse shows the legend MILLIONS FOR DEFENCE and in a wreath (or sometimes a border of stars) NOT ONE CENT FOR TRIBUTE. The token is 28 mm in diameter and was struck in copper.  Value depends on grade. Approximate range: $3 - $175.(unc)

You have a modern privately issued token (the legend refers to Black Beard the pirate) that borrows some elements of a Spanish 8 reales.  This is representative of tokens or medals sold in souvenir shops in tourist areas and are often a nice memento of a visit. There is no numismatic (rare coin) value associated with this piece.

You may have a Virginia Halfpenny. These were authorized by England for Virginia in 1773. The obverse shows the head of King George III facing right, the legend GEORGIVS III REX (George III King) is around.  The reverse shows a large crown, with 17 and 73 on either side, over a shield with lions, fleur de leis, harp and horses in quadrants.  The word, starting on the right side is VIRGI and on the left side is NIA.  Ciculated examples range in value from approximately $50 - $350.

Restoring coins and removing dirt is best left to an expert. Amateur cleaning substantially reduces the value of a coin. The idea is to remove what is on the surface not the surface itself.  See the American Numismatic Association on the CoinSite Links page for professional restoration and authentication services .

The coin is approximately 1.5 inches across and weighs approximately 1 ounce. One side is very clearly stamped, although very slightly off-center.  At the top is the date "1633", and then (going clockwise) a dot, followed by "HISPANIARVM", another dot, "REX", another dot and back to the date.  The center is a cross surrounded by a stylized circle.  The cross is made up of simple straight lines.  In the upper left and lower right quadrant of the cross are castles, and in the lower left and upper right quadrants are "rampant lions (?)" facing left.

The reverse side is much harder to read, as it appears to have been double-stamped.  At the top is some sort of floral motif.  Again going clockwise around the edge, there is what appears to be "PHILLIPPVS", then a dot, followed by some illegible writing.  In the center is a shield with various markings that I can't identify.  To the right of the shield is a large "8", and on the left is some sort of marking that I cannot identify.

Shortly after I found this coin, I took it to a local coin dealer who told me that it had no value other than its "silver value," which he determined to be $17.00 at the time.  I decided to keep it, and I'm saving it for my young daughter (3 yrs-old).  I'd like to know a little about it so that when she gets older I can tell her something of its history before I found it.

I have been looking around on the internet at coin sites, and I haven't found any coins that are exactly like this one.  Can you help me identify it with the information I have given you?

You are describing a 1633 Spain 8 Reales of Felipe IV (1621-1665).  The obverse shows the Hapsburg shield Crowned.  The Arabic number "8", representing the denomination "8 reales" is at the right of the shield.  At the left is the mint mark, a 2-tier, 4-arch aqueduct representing the Segovia Mint.  Below is the letter "R", the mark of the assayer, Rafael Salvan.  The abbreviated Latin legends around the shield are: PHILIPPVS IIII D.G. (Philip IV By the Grace of G-d).

The legend continues on the reverse: HISPANIARVM REX 1633 (King of Spain 1633). There is a cross within a tressure that shows alternating Castles and Lions, representing the unification of the two medieval Kingdoms of Castilla and León that eventually became Spain (España).

For hundreds of years the Spanish 8 reales was the world's trade unit.  When the fledgling United States created their monetary system it was based on a decimalized version of the 8 reales (US$1=8 reales). Spanish coins were legal tender in the United States until 1858 and helped alleviate the coin shortages that were endemic around the country. (Contemporary 8 reales were often cut into 8 parts when small change wasn't available.  Each part, called a "bit",  was 12 1/2 cents.  Two bits was a quarter, a term still known today but now quickly disappearing from colloquial language).

Collectors value coins on rarity and condition. Coins closer to uncirculated grades are worth more than coins with heavy wear. Damaged coins are worth a great deal less. For reference the coin contains about 3/4 of an ounce of silver and weighs 27 grams (this is one diagnostic for authentication). Value range: $150 - $2,000.

From your limited description it seems that you have a President Millard Fillmore Indian Peace Medal.  The obverse shows the head of Millard Fillmore facing right, the date 1850, is below.  At the truncation of the bust is the initials of the designer, S. Ellis (Salathiel Ellis).  The legend MILLARD FILLMORE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES, is around.

The reverse shows a Settler and Indian standing before an American Flag; LABOR, VIRTUE HONOR are in ovals above. Below in exergue is the initials of the designer J. WILSON (Joseph Wilson). The settler is lecturing the Indian on the benefits of civilization.  This message was obviously ineffective and didn't seem to stop the constant, savage Indian wars. (Did anyone ever think that maybe the Indians had a different perspective).

The medals were struck in silver and copper and the original issues are 76 mm in diameter.  After 1860 similar medals in a smaller size, 62 mm, were struck for collectors.  The original size was struck for sale after 1892.

The original examples were struck at a private mint in New York.  This was the first time that Indian Peace Medals were struck by contract outside the Philadelphia Mint. For more information about Indian Peace Medals and how they were used, Click here .

Approximate value Range for the copper examples: $400 -$1,200. Value for Mint Produced brass replicas: about $5.

You have a 1897 Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria Medal.  I think you have one of the official issues by T. Brock. This marked the 60th year of Queen Victoria's reign in England.  The medals were struck in two sizes, large 56 mm and small 21mm, in gold, silver and copper.

You didn't mention the size, metal or condition but depending on that information the Value range is from $10 - $1,400.  The value can be greater if you have the original box of issue.

You have a standard Canadian cent. The 1967 issue commemorated the 100th year anniversary of the Canadian Confederation.  The bird on the reverse is a rock dove and was designed by Alex Colville.  All the coins struck in 1967 have the dual dated of 1867-1967 and feature designs different than on previous or later years. Value: 1 cent.

I have mold on coin boxes, pennies are getting black spots on them, some silver getting green on them.  Some mint coins are in mint packages and are changing color.

I am collecting rolls of the 50 State Quarters are they going to turn also.  Help.

It doesn't seem to affect paper currency in 3-ring binders, but I can smell that musty smell.
Terry

Mold indicates that your storage area is contaminated with mold spores, dust and moisture. You can probably eliminate the musty smell and the mold simply by storing the coins in a well lit area.  The presence of light inhibits the growth of mold.

Black spots on copper coins can be caused by contamination with saliva that can be projected on coins when they are examined closely. It can take as 6 months or longer for the spots to appear after contamination.  The presence of any Polyvinylchloride holders in a closed area can also be a source of damage.  PVC decays over time releasing corrosive hydrogen sulfide gas and a oily softener. Coins stored inside PVC will be severely damaged by these products. Silver coins usually turn green and lose their luster.  Paper money will also be affected by PVC, mold and moisture.

Only Mylar, acetate or hard plastic are acceptable for storage. Cardboard coin boxes are OK. Though they contain sulfur, they won't affect coins not physically in contact with the box. 

With all the noise about storage mediums, it seems that the old standard cardboard 2 x2s with the acetate windows are fine for coin storage. I have mint state U.S. cents from the 20's and 30's that are still full red that have been stored in 2x2's in a cardboard coin box for many years. Modern U.S. Mint sets usually store well in their original packaging as long as they are not in contact or near decaying PVC.

You have a 1795 Austrian Netherlands, Kronenthaler.  The "H" represents the mint mark of the Gunzburg Mint.  The obverse shows the head of King Franz II of Austria (1792-1835). The abbreviated Latin legend is around: FRANC II D G R I S A GER HIE HVN BOH REX.

To translate most European coins one has to "know the code".   Some Factoids:

-Most countries up until the 20th century universally had Latin legends. Latin was the international language and it kept with the tradition of the ancient Romans and their conversion to Christianity.

-Rulers usually inherited their titles and after many generations there could be many. They insisted on getting them all on their coins, a daunting task for the coin's designer (thus the extreme abbreviations).

-Certain terms became standard abbreviations that everyone understood.  Here is the breakdown of the above legend:

Franc II - This was the king's name.  The Germanic version was Franz.  He was king of Austria.
D. G. - the initials of "Dei Gratia" or in English "By the Grace of G-d"
R.I.S.A. - the Latin initials of "Romanorum Imperator Semper August" -Emperor of the Romans Ever Supreme.
(Is this flowering enough yet?) Now we have to tell you what we are king of:

GER - Germany
HIE - Jeruselem (now we're boasting)
HU -Hungary
BO - Bohemia
REX - the word "King"-Latin grammar dictates that you place this last.

The legend continues on the reverse surrounding an ornate cross with alternating crowns (more titles): ARCH AVST DVX BVRG LOTH BRAB COM FLAN (Archduke of Austria, Duke of Burgundy and Lorraine, Count of Flanders (Netherlands).

You didn't supply the edge motto other then to say that it began with "Fide" but a possible edge motto might be: "Fidi Pietati Huic et Futuro Aevo Sacrum"(Sacred to the faith and piety for this future age) or simply, "Fides et Victoria" (Faith and Victory) or "Fide et Lege" (Faith and Law). The function of an ornate lettered edge was to prevent the practice of  "clipping", that is taking off bits of metal to store and remelt later. Remember that coins were intrinsic and silver and gold coins had the prescribed amount of precious metal that corresponded with their value.

The numismatic value of this coin depends on the condition (grade).Approximate Range: $10 - $100.

The value of the coins is probably the deciding factor.  It is relatively expensive ($15-$30 per coin) to purchase grading services and you would have to add that amount to the cost basis of the coins.  The current "big 3" grading services are NGC, PCGS and ANACS.  NCI, I think is defunct and ACG (Accugrade) primarily grades modern issues.

You need to get a professional opinion about the coins that you have before you take any action. Because a coin is encapsulated by a third party grading service doesn't indicate that it is valuable.  There are many graded coins that are worth less than the grading fees.

Though paying a third party professional grading service doesn't necessarily make coins more valuable in many cases it can make them more saleable. There is a game that's played with coins that have considerable worth.  The object of the game is to purchase, what the buyer thinks, may be an "undergraded" coin, then, have it regraded and reap the profit from the difference.  This is tantamount to gambling and interjects a heady risk factor in such a purchase (you don't always win).  It gets really exciting when the difference between grades means thousands of dollars.  An attractive "raw", that is, non-encapsulated, ungraded coin, can sometimes be better bait.

You have a locally produced medal.  This is not a coin or an issue of the United States Mint.  This kind of item is often seen in tourist shops and makes a nice souvenir of a visit to an historic site.  Medal collectors pay about $10 for these items.

In 1991 the United States Mint produced a copper-nickel half-dollar and a 90% silver dollar commemorating the 50th anniversary of the Mount Rushmore National Memorial. These are actual coins that can be pruchased at your local coin shop for nominal cost.

You have a 1873 France (3rd Republic) 5 Franc. Obverse: Wreath surrounding 5 FRANCS 1873, REPUBLIQUE FRANCAISE around.  Reverse: Hercules with Muses on either side, LIBERTE, EGALITE, FRATERNITE (Liberty, Equality, Brotherhood) around.  In exergue (under the dividing line) is the signature of Dupré, the designer.  There is a lettered security edge with the motto DIEU PROTEGE LA FRANCE (G-d Protect France). The coin was struck on a .900 fine silver planchet, weighs 25 grams and contains .7234 troy ounce silver.

There are two Mints that made this coin. The mint mark appears under the wreath on the obverse. Market value depends on the condition (grade) and mint mark. Approximate value range for "A" (Paris Mint): $5 -$20. (mintage 27,077,000)
Approximate value range for "K" (Bordeaux Mint): $6 - $50. (mintage 3,853,000)

Most of the material that you listed is common fair usually found in average circulated condition and brings nominal amounts in the coin market. Uncirculated, that is new condition examples, are worth a great deal more. You can check prices from a world coin catalog (check your local library).

Generally, coin collectors organize their collections and store the coins in "flips" with information cards.  Loose coins in a box, for example, are often an accumulation of foreign exchange and other souvenirs.  That doesn't indicate that your coins are worthless.  For example, there may be value in the accumulation as a group, there may be some rarer items thrown in with common items or you may have coins that have silver value.

For general information about U.S. Coin prices you may want to check out the CoinSite's What's it Worth? feature. There are also coin catalogs that you can purchase or find in your local library that will help you identify specific items that might be potentially valuable.

Alternatively, you can hire a numismatist to appraise, catalog and grade your coins.

You can find all this information by using the CoinSite Search Engine to see the many references and articles about 1943 cents.  See the What it's Worth? feature for general prices for all U.S. coins.  See the same place for error coins and look for the table labeled "Blank Planchets".

You have a city issued (not State) "Notgeld" 10 pfennig.  These coins were issued by cities and towns during the period of the First World War (1914) to about 1923.  They were also issued by companies, transportation entities, utility companies and even by merchants.

Their purpose was to ease the coins shortage caused by the war and the hyper-inflation in Germany afterwards.  Denominations of 1 pfennig to one mark were the most often struck. They are most often seen in zinc, iron, steel and aluminum. Value Range: $1 -$5.

There were two particular dollar errors that have been in the media lately.

-A "mule", that is two coin dies not intended to be used together.  This one is a Washington quarter obverse married to a Sacagawea dollar reverse.  This is the first mule in U.S. history.  There are three known though others may exist.  The first brought $41,000 or so on an eBay auction.  A second piece brought about $10,000 less at a coin show auction.

-A Sacagawea dollar found struck on a Susan B. Anthony dollar planchet. Very rare and valuable error.  Price??

You have a cent struck on a clipped planchet, that is, an incomplete coin missing 10-25% of the metal. This results from an error in punching out blanks from metal strip. The punch accidentally strikes a portion of the strip already punched. They are described by collectors by their shape: curved, strait, ragged, incomplete and elliptical.

Years ago, these errors use to be difficult to find since the coins would get caught in counting machines and be retrieved and remelted. In the early 1980's the Mint began weighing the coins instead of counting them resulting in large numbers of these errors finding their way into the stream of commerce. The value of these errors depend on the nature and size of the clip and whether there is more than one clip error on the planchet. Approximate value for the most common clips found on a 1988 cent: $1.

A "Type set", by definition is an example of each coin denomination within a particular period. The coins dates shouldn't be important as long as the coins are contemporary with each other.  You would collect two coins of each denomination.  One each from the Philadelphia and Denver Mints.  The hardest coin to find will be the half dollars. You may have to get a few rolls from a bank to get an example of those. You should also include Susan B. Anthony dollars or a Sacagawea dollars in your type set.  A "Year Set" would require all the coins to have the same date.

You have a 1752 (Year XII) Vatican-Papal States copper Quattrino (5 Quattrini=1 Baiocco, 100 Baiocco=Scudo). This was the lowest denomination coin struck during this period (like a penny).

The Pontiff at this time was Benedict XIV (1740-1758). Value depends on condition. Value Range: $3-$25. For more information, including symbolism on Vatican coins click here