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Comments:        I am not really a coin collector and I explored a number of related sites because of the double struck quarter I came across. This site is by far the best organized and user friendly.
Name:        Ted Gitzke
Email Address:   tagitzke@worldnet.att.net
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Question:        I recently acquired a "Conneticut" State Series Quarter
which has had the head double struck and the heads are 180 degrees out of phase. Could you estimate the value? Would it be worth keeping (anticipate growing value)or selling? Thank you.

At first I thought this was a "brockage" error where one coin gets stuck to a die and impresses its image into the next blank.  There is  too much damage to the coin and it is suspiciously well lined up. My opinion:    - two blocks of wood    - 2 quarters     -a hammer

There is a great deal of interest in State quarters, especially errors. It has reached hysterical levels.  Normal business strikes that should be in circulation are being slabbed and sold for breathtaking prices. Hey guys, this is pocket change!

State quarter errors are bringing 10 to 20 times what scarcer earlier same type errors are bringing.  Fake errors are easy to sell as the bulk of collectors for State quarters are "newbies" and don't know the difference, thus the run on blocks of wood and hammers. I wouldn't want to be the guy without the chair when the music stops.

The mint makes great proof and mint sets that you can buy at reasonable prices to keep your State quarter collection up to date. They are in gem condition.  You can break those out and slab them if you wish.  The grading services are smiling like Cheshire cats.  It is their dream come true. The public is willing to slab their change at $15-$30 a pop.  It's better than bottled water.

You have a 1842 United States cent. The coin shows an allegorical head of a woman as Liberty. There are thirteen stars around representing the thirteen original colonies.

Until 1857 cents were almost the size of a half dollar. There were half cents too.  Holed, the coin is considered mutilated and brings about $2 but it was really there in 1842 and that makes it fun.

Note that large cents are available in large numbers and many nice examples can be had for $15 or less.  See your local coin shop.

V.D.B. are the initials of the designer of the Lincoln cent, Victor D. Brenner. For lots more information about this famous person click here.

A) HOW MUCH IS IT WORTH?
B) IS THERE SUCH A COIN GRADING AS"AU60"

There is no grade AU60. "60" is reserved for mint state coins (MS).

The value of your coin depends on whether it has the "old" or "new" reverse:
Approximate value in VF-new reverse (small letters and arrows):- $100.
Approximate value in VF-old reverse (large letters and arrows): - $400.

George V not George IV, he died in 1830. You'll have to be more specific. There was more than one denomination in use in the UK in 1915.

Cleaning coins is a tricky undertaking best left to a professional. The aim is to remove material FROM the surface without damaging the coin.  Anything that removes part of the surface such as scrubbing or chemicals that remove metal, reduce the coin's value.

You have "notgeld", or local German coinage that was used in cities and towns to substitute for the rapidly inflating national currency (German currency totally collapsed by 1923). "Stadt Zeitz" or Zeitz town was the issuer of this 10 pfennig coin.  The term ERSATZGELD refers to the fact that the coin is "substitute money".

It is hard to place a value on this coin with out examining it.  Many were made long after the high inflation period ended as souvenirs.  Most notgeld was in the form of paper money, but coins made from various materials, from porcelain to iron were also made. Notgeld is still sold as souvenirs in Germany and Austria today.

Costs of producing coins vary with metal values, cost of machinery and labor. Approximate costs are three tenths of a cent to mint a cent. All the other circulating coins cost between 2-3 cents to manufacture. Seignorage, or the profit on minting coins increased enormously when precious metal was eliminated from circulating coinage.

A good source for information on the coinage process and its history is:

U.S. Mint and Coinage by Don Taxay.
Sanford Durst Numismatic Publications, New York

In the 19th century dates and mint marks were stamped into the working dies by hand allowing for the same hub to be used for a number of years (that's why there are so many date varieties). In modern times the date is on the master hub requiring a new hub each year. Technology has made this cost effective. Very recently the mint mark has also become part of the master hub (I guess no more mint mark varieties either).

You can get the mintage figures for each coin, year and mint mark by purchasing the very useful and inexpensive "Red Book", officially known as A GuideBook of United States Coins.

From:Sandy Jernigan
Subject: ?? Dollar
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We have run across this coin.  We have no clue anything about it.  Any information you could give us would be appreciated:  Where is it from, exactly what is it, how old is it, how much is it worth? Thanks,Sandy

You have a Republic of China Year 10 (1921) Dollar (Yuan) 7 characters above head. These coin are known as Yuan

To read the Chinese inscription note that your coin has 7 characters above the head. Reading from left to right the second character is Nien or year. The third character is the number "10" for the tenth year of the Republic (1921). The remaining characters are "Chung Hua Min Kuo" or Republic of China. The upright orientation of the reverse is with the ribbon bow at bottom. The two characters are the denomination translated as "One Yuan".

There are two varieties of the year 10 dollar. Based on the condition of the coin in your photo, these are the approximate values:

Year 10 normal reeding: $5.
Year 10 oblique reeding: $10.

Comments:        I consider the site to be very professional and that is whyI decide to email my information to the "Coin Doctor" because I felt he could help me.
Name:        L. Saunders
Email Address:   saunders@cetlink.net 
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Question:        I have recently acquired a three piece set of 1936 Philippine Commemoratives (coins). They are sealed in a plastic case with screws (professionally).
#1. front: "Commonwealth of The Philipine" dated over the heads of two men "Nov.15, 1935" and "One Peso" underneath. Back: "United States of America" dated "1936" under the seal of the Philipines and the designers inital "M" near the left rim.
#2. front: two men facing one another with the date of "Nov. 15, 1935" between the chest and "Fifty Centavos" under the men. Back: same as the #1 peso.
#3 Front: The  only difference in the second "One Peso" is that the date is behind the two mens head and the second man (can only see his profile) is different and the front man is the same. I would judge these coins as either being at least "uncirculated" or at most "mint". Can you please give me some kind of information and value. I would appreciate any help in this matter.  Thank you, LS

The Philippines became a United States possession as part of the settlement of the Spanish-American War of 1898.  Your three coins  are a commemorative of the establishment of the Philippine Commonwealth, one step on the way to independence.

The Japanese occupied the Philippine island for most of World War II.  The United States offered the Philippines  independence after the Japanese were forced to withdraw. The Philippines became an independent nation in 1946. (Click here for more information about coins from the Philippines)

One Peso, 20 grams, 90% silver (.5787 ounce troy).  "Establishment of the Commonwealth" dated 1936. Manila Mint (M). Conjoined busts of Presidents Roosevelt and President Quezon.  Approximate value in mint state: $100.

One Peso, 20 grams , 90% silver (.5787 ounce troy). "Establishment of the Commonwealth" dated 1936. Manila Mint (M). Conjoined busts of Governor General Murphy and President Quezon.  Approximate value in mint state: $100.

50 Centavos 75% silver (.2411 ounce troy). Establishment of the Commonwealth dated 1936. Manila (M) Mint. Facing heads of Murphy and Quezon. Approximate Value in mint State: $70.

Comments:        very good i like how it is so organized
Name:        Jim Bean
Email Address:   sweendawg33@hotmail.com
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Question:        In the red book, it says te 1841-O $5 Gold Piece is not known an any collections, while the blackbook says two specimens are known.  Why are there 2 different reports? Which is right? And if the red book is right, why would the blackbook say there is 2 specimens? Please Help..Thanks.

There were 50 struck. There has never been a report of someone actually finding them in a collection.  The blackbook speculates that 2 may have been seen (like the Loch Ness monster).

Comments:        Lots of great information!
Name:        Richard Peterutti
Email Address:   RP@family2k.com
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Question:        I have a 1974 One Dollar Bill that is blank on the back. Its serial number is L47772458G.  I understand that blank backs are rarer than blank fronts and that the occurrence of the misprints is key to determining its value.  Is this particular date/series worth anything substantial?

Blank backs, that is, notes missing the first printing are scarce.  It can happen when two sheets are stuck together and pass through the press at the same time, a sheet could be folded over before it is printed, there was no ink on the plate or the sheets missed the printing completely because the sheet(s) was accidentally stacked in drying room instead of being printed. Value depends on grade (condition). Approximate range: $35 -$200.

Comments:        Great site, extensive knowledge, just couldn;t find exactly what I was lookin for.
Name:        John Knisley
Email Address:   Crazyasian1122@aol.com
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Question:        Hey doc, My girlfriend has a coin minted in 1994 that says "women in military service memorial."  It has busts of 5 women and all the names of the services around the edge on the front.  On the back it has a pic of some memorial building and it says one dollar on it.  She recieved it from her grandfather who has passed on.  Can you help me out with any info on it and it's current market price?  thanks.

The 1994 Women Veterans Silver Dollar is an official United States commemorative coin struck by the Philadelphia Mint.  There are two types: Mint State and Proof ("S" mint mark).  The value quote assumes that the coin is still in the original box and casing and contains the certificate that accompanied the coin from the U.S. Mint. Approximate Value, Mint State or proof: $20.

From: "Dorothy Bean" beanor3@juno.com
Subject: 1864 two cent piece
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My father-in-law found an 1864 two cent piece in an old house in Ellicott City, MD.  We would like to know how to tell the difference of the large and small motto since they look so similar.  Also, do you know of a reputable coin collector in our area that could appraise this coin for us? The coin looks in good condition but a little dirty.  What do you recommend that we clean it with? Sincerely, Bess Bean

Below are the design differences between 1864 2c, small and large motto varieties:

Small motto: The first "T" in trust is virtually up against the ribbon crease.
Large motto: There is a 1 mm gap on the large motto variety.

Small motto: The letters in the word "WE" are close together
Large motto: The letters in the word "WE" are widely separated.

Small motto: Stem to the leaf is plainly visible
Large motto: No stem

Cleaning the coin will destroy most of the coin's value.
Value range: Small motto $30 - $500 (G4 - MS60), Large Motto: $5 - $65 (G4 - MS60).

See our advertisers on CoinSite and on www.sellcoins.com for buy and sell sources.

From: "heath proffitt" heathyrow@yahoo.com
Subject: 50 centimes
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i have a coin that i can't find any info on it.  the words "empire cherifien" along the top of one side with a 5-sided star.  on the reverse side is "50 centimes" in the center of an odd shape (kind of like a square over the same shaped diamond), and the number "29" over the left corner of the 5.  there is some writing strung together like cursive, that i can't tranlate, on both sides.  any information would be greatly appreciated, please reply.  thank-you

You have a Morocco nickel, 50 centimes (100 centimes= 1Franc) c. 1921 or 1924 (thunderbolt on bottom of reverse under "50"), as a French Protectorate.  What you perceive as a "29" is part of the Arabic inscription. Value depends on grade (condition) Approximate Value Range: US 10 cents - $50.

Comments:        I really like the site, has good information in an easy to
find pattern.  Will use it often.  Thank you
Name:        Bill Richards
Email Address:   RichardsNet@excite.com
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Question:        I was given a Silver American Eagle dollar (at least I think that is what it is! It has a walking liberty on front and an almost presidential crest of the eagle with 13 stars above it's head)year 1994, it says 1oz. Fine Silver-One Dollar and is stored in a plastic sleeve.  I realize that it is a young coin, but I was wondering how I could fine out more information about this coin.  Is it's present storage ok?  Does it matter?  It may be a commemorative coin.  Any information you can give me to get started would be a help.  Thank you

You have a one troy ounce silver Eagle. This series began in 1986 as a way for the Mint to cash in on the bullion markets. The coins are very popular and bring about a 20% premium over bullion silver.  They are sold in rolls of 20 and packs of 100.

Name:        Marie Cowan
Email Address:   sunny1415@hotmail.com
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Question:        I have what looks like a silver dime.  It was made in 1986, but instead of having a letter symbol of where it was made it has what looks like a js, it's very hard to tell it's so small.  I was wondering how much it would be worth.

There were no silver dimes struck in 1986. All dimes after 1964 are struck in a copper-nickel clad construction of 75% copper and 25% nickel bonded to a pure copper core.  Though it is unlikely that your dime was struck on a silver planchet, you can check the weight of your coin to determine if it is a silver dime or is really a standard copper-nickel dime. Pre-1965 dimes, 90% silver, weigh 2.5 grams.  Clad dimes, from 1965 to present weigh 2.27 grams.

The initials "JS" (John R. Sinnock), the designer of the Roosevelt dime, appears at the truncation of the neck on all Roosevelt dimes.

Name:        steve murch
Email Address:   smurch@erols.com
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Question:        i have a 1793 large cent-wreath that i purchased from a dealer for  $5.95.   it is exactly like the one in your "image gallery", uneven cast on reverse and all   was there any fake ones made? by whom?   if it is not a fake,how much is it worth?   how can i tell if it is a fake?

United States coins are struck not cast but some copies are (look for a seam on the edge). A genuine 1793 wreath cent, depending on the variety and grade would bring between $400 - $10,000. You can have your coin authenticated at the non-profit American Numismatic Association.  See their link on the CoinSite Links Page.

By the way, where can I find a professional dealer who is willing to give away $10,000 bills for $5.95?

Comments:        Good
Name:        Jim Bean
Email Address:   sweendawg33@hotmail.com
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Question:        I have a question on Saint-Guadens $20 Gold Pieces, me and my brother were digging in the backyard and found a small box, inside, we found three of these. The dates and mints are, 1920-S, 1927-D, and 1913-S, all in Mint Condition, how much are these worth?

Congratulations on your find.  All those dates are extremely rare to impossibly rare in mint state grades. Estimated value ranges depend on actual Mint State Grade: 1920-S - $25,000 - $150,000 1913-S - $900 - $10,000+ 1927-D - (It's not nice to fool the Coin Doc but here it is anyway): $300,000 - $1,000,000+.

From: Maureen West Sunderland
Subject: Shield Nickel Help!
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Sirs,
     I need some advice or assistance.  I had a MS+++/proof 1867 shield nickel, (no rays).   I turned it over to a local coin dealer to have it sent in for grading. I live in Mitchell South dakota.  He suggested that he do me a favor by sending it in for grading. I trusted him.  I went away on vacation for two and a half months. 

When i came back he gave me back a very bad xf nickel with corrosion and serious dings.  Mine was beautiful, gold toned, with full luster and not even the tiniest bag mark.  We both looked it over with a ten power when I handed it over.  He remarked on the toning and the fact of no marks what-so-ever.  Yet he told the police that i had given him a low quality coin.   

How can I find out if this coin has been put on the market?  I just want to know if you know of anybody that has sold or bought such a coin recently.    Or how I can get more information.  I gave him the coin in early April. Are there any lists or means of looking.  I have been collecting for over 40 years and have never seen a better condition circulation coin.  I bought it from a dealer in Germany about ten years ago.    

I would appreciate any assistance or advice that you can give me.     The police have told me that it is his word against mine.  However, the individual told the police that I gave him a low grade coin.  So if I can trace a high grade shield nickel back to this guy I would have him cold.  Please help me police our hobby.       Sincerely, L. W. Sunderland

Proof is not a grade but a method of manufacturing a special coin for collectors or presentation. This is quite a bit different that an MS (Mint State) coin that was minted for use in commerce. Only 600 1867 "No Rays" Shield nickel proofs were struck but 28,890,500 business strikes were minted.

The dealer's argument will be that if you are confused over the type and grade of the coin that you have then you can't take the dealer to task. If you are not experienced enough to known whether your coin is proof or mint state then the dealer can make the argument that you certainly can't tell the difference between circulated and mint state grades.

I have no doubt that the dealer has been dishonest but you will have to have some evidence of the condition of the coin that you submitted.  Do you have a receipt with a description from the purchase of the nickel? Even if you don't, here are some things to try:

-If the nickel you brought in to be graded was a circulated low grade coin then the dealer would have advised you NOT to have it graded.  Average circulated 1867 "No Rays" Shield nickels are worth from approximately $5 - $20, less than the cost of professional grading. Only uncirculated pieces or proofs without damage are worth grading this particular coin and date. (Values for mint state 1867 "No Rays" Shield nickels ($100 -$500+ and proofs: $250+). I would make this argument to the local police.

-Virtually every dealer belongs to the American Numismatic Association (see their link on the CoinSite's Link Page) They are a non-profit, educational institution chartered by The United States Congress more than a century ago.  Write, email or call them for assistance.  They will help you make a case and can mediate on your behalf. Being expelled from the ANA is not exactly good for business.  If this individual is not a member, than you really went to the wrong place.

-You can also speak to the local DA's or county clerks office about the possibility of filing a criminal and/or civil complaint. The burden of proof may be satisfied by the above argument.

Sorry you had a problem.  Collecting coins is suppose to be fun and sometimes even profitable.

Your 1862 50 cent note is part of the fractional currency series that ran from 1862 to 1874. The initial use was to take the place of precious metal coins that were being hoarded by the public during the Civil War (1861-1865) but their usefulness continued long after.

There are five issues. The 1862 50 cent is part of the first issue. Values depend of the grade (condition) of the note and the specific variety (there are four).Value Range from Good to uncirculated: $5 - $350.+

There are no United States $10 notes with a 1864 series date. (1861 -Demand Notes, 1862 and 1863 - United States Notes (Legal Tender Notes). The next series was dated 1869) .  You most probably have a Confederate States of America $10 note.Value Range: $5 - $35.

Not much is known about the unofficial coppers of Massachusetts but they were aimed at relieving the shortage of small change. What was in short supply, was pennies and half pennies that made up the bulk of transactions in this period.  Larger sums of money were handled by Spanish 8 reales (Pillar and portrait dollars), English shillings and crowns and foreign gold coins.  Official coppers were authorized by the Massachusetts General Court on October 17, 1786.  All State coins became obsolete in 1789 when the United States constitution was ratified.

As far as I know just one 1776 Pine Tree copper exist. There is speculation that Paul Revere designed and struck this coin and might have made the other two unofficial coppers as well, (the 1776 "Three Heads Halfpenny" and the "1776 Province halfpenny"), as many of the design elements are similar to other known works by Revere. There is also speculation that the severe shortage of copper and Paul Revere's lack of knowledge about diesinking might have been the reason that the project was abandoned.

Many replicas have been made over the years, mostly as souvenirs, especially in the centennial and bicentennial years of 1876 and 1976. These copies are not deceptive.  Only a tiny minority have been made to fool inexperienced collectors.

If you believe that you are in the possession of a numismatic discovery, you should send your piece to be evaluated at the non-profit American Numismatic Association. Alternatively, both NGC and PCGS evaluate, grade, and encapsulate coins (See their links on the CoinSite Links page for further information about these services). 

What you are seeing is the height of the rim.  This is a function of the upsetting machine that creates the rim on cut blanks.  You can ascertain this by weighing the cent.  All copper Lincoln cents weigh 3.11 grams.