The Coin Doc's Answers

Return to the Coin Doc's Answer Archive Menu

Tammy at TVermillio@AOL.com writes: How can you tell a "large" leaf civil war two penny from a small leaf one. The pictures look alike to us. How much is it worth. Thanks.

Dear Tammy,
I think you are talking about the large and small motto United States Two Cent Piece. The two cent piece made its debut in 1864 during the darkest time of the Civil War. It is the first United States coin to use the motto "In God We Trust" . When the coin was first issued the lettering in the legend was too small for the design and was enlarged in the same year and for all subsequent years. Here are some ways to tell the difference:
-Look at the "T" in trust. On the small motto, the "T" is very close to the crease of the ribbon. On the large motto the "T" is about 1mm from the crease.
-The "OD" in God are widely spaced on the small motto, the base of the "O" and "D" almost touch on the large motto.
-The shape of the "O" in God is round in the small motto and oval in the large motto.
-The leaf stem shows plainly on the small motto but doesn't exist on the large motto.
The value depends on the state of preservation. Uncleaned average circulated small motto 2c coins range form $80-$200. Uncirculated, that means new, pieces are worth much more.

Silvia Saldana at ravalos@cemtec.com writes: Dear Doc: I'm looking for the names, symbols or abbreviations of some world coins. I`ve got the names but I´m missing the symbols (ex. United States:US$)of the following countries:
Canada, Belize, Belgium, Colombia, Venezuela, Netherlands, Netherlands Antilles, Netherland Guayana, Peru, Bermuda, Bahamas, Cayman Islands, Haiti, St. Lucia, Jamaica, Cuba, Trinidad & Tobago, Britain Virgin Islands, Panama, Dominican Republic, Spain, Portugal, England, Ireland, Romania, Hong kong, Singapore, Indonesia, Philippines.
I will appreciate if you could kindly send them to me. Thanks a lot for your assistance in this matter.
Sincerely,
Silvia Saldana

Dear Silvia,
Here is the official monetary symbols you asked for:
Canada (Can$), Belize(BZ$), Belgium(BF), Colombia ( Peso), Venezuela (Bs), Netherlands (Hfl), Netherlands Antilles (Afl), Guyana (G$), Peru (S/), Bermuda(BD$), Bahamas (B$), Cayman Islands (CI$), Haiti (G), St. Lucia (EC$), Jamaica (J$), Cuba (Cub$), Trinidad & Tobago (TT$), Britain Virgin Islands (US$), Panama (B/), Dominican Republic (Peso), Spain (Pts), Portugal (Esc), England (£), Ireland (£lr), Romania (L), Hong kong (HK$), Singapore ($), Indonesia (Rp), Philippines (P= two lines go over the P).

VAN DOTY III at van_doty_iii@sager.sager.com writes: WHAT WOULD A $20.00 US BILL THAT HAS BEEN PRINTED WITH THE BACK ON BOTH SIDES WITH THE FRONT ON TOP OF ONE OF THE BACKS AND THE NUMBER 20 BACKWARDS ON THE BILL THE SERIES IS A 1990.

The note that you have is called an Offset Transfer and occurs when the press is started before the paper is fed in. The inked plate contacts the machine bed and when the paper is fed in, it picks up the impression of the plate from the bed. Of course, all the transferred elements will be backwards. This extra impression will continue until the bed is cleaned of all ink. The darker the transfer the more that the note is worth. Complete offset transfers on $20 bills in new condition bring $100 or so.

Bob Rickman at rickman@sympatico.ca writes: I am curious about a coin that came into my possession recently. It is in good condition and bears a head with Caesar Augustus on one side and the date 63 Ac 14 Dc on the other side. Other markings include Imperatore and Augusto on the date side. The picture of the head is quite clear and this would look like an unused coin except for the fact that it is not perfectly round..looks like it was handmade. I would like to know if it is a genuine coin and if by chance I could be holding a 2000 year old coin and if you know of such a coin would it be of any value. BTW it is metallic but not as shiny as would be expected of gold. Thanks in advance for any info you may have.

Dear Bob,
The "coin" that you have sounds like a modern medal. Medals or tokens like this are usually made for some commercial purpose. What you described in your note would not have been made during the reign of Augustus. The Romans didn't put Gregorian dates on their coins. (Your about a 1000 or so years early here) and Augustus was never written as Augusto. You're right about ancient coins not being perfectly round, the technology for that didn't exist until the 17th century AD. The year 14 AD was the last year of Augustus's reign, though I don't understand the reference to 63 or AC-DC...sounds like a spoof of some sort.

Stef at SLStrenger@aol.com writes: I've started a century series and I have every coin from 1940-1997. I'm having trouble finding the coins I need to complete the series. The coins at the store are to expensive. What should I do?

If grade is not important, you can asked your local coin shop if they will let you go through bags of 90% coins. Tell them that you will pay a small premium over what they bring as junk silver. You should be able to find all the common dates in silver dimes, quarters and half dollars for as little as 4-5 times face value at the current price of silver. Also try local coins shows for the tougher pieces. You will have to save up for some of the coins but the quest is what makes coin collecting fun. Get a copy of A Guide Book of United States Coins by R.S Yeoman, revised by Kenneth Bressett and published by Western Publishing Company, Inc. Racine Wisconsin. This is the book that coin collectors call the "Red Book". It is widely distributed and available just about anywhere, including book shops. The prices aren't always accurate, but you can use it as a check list and a relative rarity guide.
To update your collection yearly, get on the Philadelphia Mint's mailing list and purchase mint sets each year.These sets are uncirculated examples of all the regular issued coins from every Mint manufactured in that year.

Paul Nuttall at paul.nuttall@bowne.com writes: I (own) several re-strike coins, one of which is a 1783 constellatio nova 1000 usa. Is this worth anything to anyone. I read in a 1993 edition of coins & prices that the real coin is unique and was valued in Garret's collection @ $190,000, the only one known. I have a couple other similar coins. Are re-strikes worth anything?

Dear Paul,
Historical content, rarity and condition are what makes coins valuable. If you attend a coin auction you can literally feel the excitement when the participants bid against one another. If the item is merely a copy, then the historical perspective is gone (it wasn't there) and along with it, the value.
Copies of coins can be valuable as an inexpensive way of showing collectors coins that they may never be in a position to own. The Hobby Protection Act in the United States, requires that copies, or museum replicas state be stamped with the words copy or replica.
"Restrikes" suggest that a coin was struck with the original dies at some time later than the date on the coin. Some of these can be historic and also have value. There have been proofs and regular issue coins restruck in the U.S. for various reasons, such as for presentation purposes. Some are quite valuable because the restrike is surrounded by another historical event.

T. Davis at teritom@erols.com writes: I have a question about a one penny coin. The date on it is 1946 and it has a what appears to be a warrior holding a pitch fork, and behind him is a shield with the British flag. One the front of the coin, it has a head and around it are the following words: GEORGIVS VI D:G:BR:OMN:REX F:D:IND:IMP. I do not know much about coins, but I have had this one for about 5 years and it is eating at me what it is. Please help put my mind at ease.

The coin you described in your note is a penny from Great Britain. It has the bust of George VI facing left. He was King of England in 1946 and father to Elizabeth II, the current Queen. The reverse shows Britannia seated on a rock with the shield of England and holding a trident in her left hand (Symbol of Neptune and therefore the sea). The coin is common and only worth a few cents but as it has sparked so much interest in you, why not use it has the start of a coin collection.

Jerry at ddd@slic.com writes: What is this coin worth? 1871 Wilhelm Koenig Von Preussen. on back: Sieges Thaler: on rim: uns~~gott~~mit~~~

The date is historic. 1871 was the date of the creation of the German Empire. It was in that year that the King of Prussia was proclaimed emperor of Germany. The coin commemorates victory over France. There is another one dated 1866 that commemorates victory over Austria. As you can image the period was one of tremendous change and upheaval in Europe. Average Circulated examples bring about $20 in the numismatic market place.

Stanley Stanko at olean@prodigy.net writes: My friend has a 1991 Jefferson nickel that has Jefferson's head on both sides of the coin. We would like to know whether it is good or was it tampered with?
and
Jack Hailey at jackiehailey@bscn.com writes: I recently found a nickel in some change that I had gotten from somewhere and this nickel has heads on both sides. I looked it over and I can't find anything on it to indicate that it is not real,it has the mint mark and the "IN GOD WE TRUST " on both sides. Can you give me some help on finding out if it is real and what its value may be? I also have a penny with a blank front and a clearly stamped back?

This question is very common. It seems like a lot of budding magicians accidentally spent their "magic" coins. These double sided coins are manufactured by machining two coins and fitting them together. Look at the inside edge of the coin to find the seam. These coins can be purchased at any magic shop.
Can a coin with the same design on both sides be done that way on purpose or accident at the Mints? No. The obverse and reverse dies are not interchangeable. They have different configurations so that they fit on the minting machines properly.
Jack's penny with the blank side is probably a result of two blanks sticking together on the coin press. Somewhere out there is a cent with the missing side that belongs to your penny. Value? Between $10-$20.

Barb at barbb@sgi.net writes: I was wondering if anyone could help me in pricing a Pewter or silver Continental curency (sic) from 1776? How can I tell it it's real or not and what may it be worth?

Dear Barb,
I assumed you spelled the word "curency" with one "r" to show me which type you have. All are valuable. The single "r" come in Pewter, brass and Silver with the latter extremely valuable (one in the 1980 Garrett Sale brought around $95,000). There are struck copies that were made as souvenirs for the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. Other copies exist including some promotional pieces struck as recently as 1961. The U.S. Congress passed a law, years ago, requiring the word "copy" or "replica" on coin reproductions. The lack of these words doesn't guaranty its authenticity. I suggest sending the coin to the American Numismatic Association's authentication service for evaluation. Go to their web site by clicking American Numismatic Association for more information about their services.

Emma Kennedy at ples5158@dedset.net.au writes: How are cupronickel coins made?

I assume you are asking about "clad" coinage and not the usual alloy of copper and nickel that is common in many world coins as well as the United States nickel. The clad metal strip used for blanks on U.S. coinage, 10c and higher, is fabricated by bonding both sides of a central core to thinner layers. So a clad blank contains nickel bonded to a central core of pure copper.

source: Walter Breen's Encyclopedia of U.S. and Colonial Coins. F.C.I. Press Inc. Doubleday, New York, 1988

Scott Vance writes: Having had bought several grading service encapsulated coins through the mail,this thought occurred to me: Have there ever been problems with tampering? (Opening up the capsules and placing lower grade coins in)? Yet another way for the crooks in the coin trade to rip off unsuspecting collectors?

Dear Scott:
Though there is great deal of controversy about coin grading, at least the holders are sonically sealed.That means that the holder becomes one piece of plastic.The grading services use this secure method of packaging graded coins as they are on the hook if the coin is obviously misgraded. Though I've opened many holders myself using a hammer and small anvil, the holder is rendered unusable. The grading services have a machine that opens the holders, it also renders the holder unusable and if the coin is reencapsulated it is placed in a new holder. I would think that your worries are unfounded.

Paul Hardy at hardyp@iserv.net writes: have a 2 Mohurs gold coin with the following markings on it: EAST INDIA COMPANY TWO MOHURS KING WILLIAM IIII, 1835. Any idea what it is worth?

Dear Paul,
The coin is quite scarce in all its variations. The coin has the portrait of William IV and a Lion walking left with a palm tree behind. You didn't say which one you have or what grade and these factors are very important to establish market price but here is some general information:
All have RS incuse on truncation:
-Milled edge. Regular issue: $500-$3000
-Milled edge Proof: $2,500-$3,500.
-Milled edge restrike-Proof Like - $800-$1,000
-Plain edge - Very Rare
There are also proof examples in silver and copper.

Mike at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu writes: I have a $10 Gold Certificate that was issued in 1922. It is in fair condition. Could you tell me approximately what this is worth and where on the net I could find some info on gold certificates?

Dear Mike:
I'm not sure what grade you are referring to when you say "fair condition". Generally that means a note in the lowest possible grade, worst than a rag. I'm going to assume that the note is average circulated between Fine and Very Fine.
Every kind of paper money has an "obligation" (see Frequently Asked Questions About Coins) that shows how that paper could be redeemed. Paper money was either a receipt for specie, gold or silver, or a loan to the issuer (Treasury notes, Legal Tender issues).
There were nine issues of large size gold certificates and one short issue of the small size (1928). Your note comes from the ninth issue beginning in 1913 with a $50 note and continuing in 1922 , $10 to $1000 note. Its convertibility into gold ended with the Gold Reserve Act of 1933 and its legal standing as a collectible wasn't clearly resolved until 1964.
Gold Certificates are always scarce in high grade and especially in the higher denominations. After the recall date in 1933 the notes were illegal to own. Though a good number survived, preserved by collectors or by accident, few were saved by the usual souvenir hoarder that puts away old issues of money for nostalgic reasons.
The 1922 Gold Certificate comes with both small and large serial numbers, both with the Speelman-White signature combination and the portrait of Michael Hillegas (First Treasurer of the United States along with co-Treasurer George Clymer). Though this is column is not a price guide, (we would like to leave pricing to our advertisers), I can say that average circulated specimens of this note go for $40-$60. The serial number size only matters, as far as value, in higher grades. You can also find sources of information about paper money by checking out our Numismatic Links page.

Juan Peña a snoop3132@aol.com escribó: Qué significa en los billetes de curso legal de cualquier denominación que aparesca al lado de la numeración de cada billete enves de dos letras aparesca una letra despues la numeracion del billete y una pequeña estrella. Esperamos su respuesta, muchas gracias.

Estimado Juan,
Las letras signifacan el serie o en el caso de Los billetes de "Federal Reserve", el primera letra significa el banco federal de emisión y la letra atrás significa el serie. Los macquinas empresan solamente ocho numerales a el numero 999999999A. El numero proxímo comienza con 00000001B. La estrella es importante porque el billete con ese símbolo es una nota que repone un billete dañado. De vez en cuando, depiende en el tipo y el época, los coleccionistas valoran más los billetes con una estrella.

On the Reverse there's a picture of a two headed eagle behind a shield and the writings, on the left, BURG-CO-TYR-1780-X, right side ARCHID-AVST-DUX. On the coins edge there are some leaves or something with the writings: "TUSPITIA", "ET", and some words that aren't clear enough to see.
Can you give me any information about this coin that you can make out from the information I gave you? and if you can, please evaluate it and tell me if you think it worth something.
Also attached to this email is a picture of the coin.
Thank you very much.
Matan.

Dear Matan,
The most famous of the Austrian Thalers is that of Maria Theresa, 1740-80. It was so popular as a means of exchange along the North African coast and in Turkey that the coin was produced throughout the nineteenth and 20th centuries in Mints outside of Austria. It is still being produced today with the same date, 1780, and is a popular international trade unit.
The coin is valued for it's silver bullion value and contains ¾ oz troy of pure silver. If you multiply the above fraction against the current price of silver you will find the approximate value of your coin.

Peggy Starr at wreddoor@sprintmail writes" What are the following worth? US 1939 dime, US 1944 and 1946 penny Dear Peggy,
....about 30 cents, one cent , one cent. Please go to the FAQ for more information about these common items.

JL Hartman at acidbrn@mailcity.com writes: About 20 years ago, my grandmother was given a 1973, Denver minted, silver penny (in mistake for a dime) while working as a sales associate. Thinking it was quite unique, she kept it in a box for many years. In 1981, she found and article in "American Collector" magazine that read as follows:
'For Sale: One 1973 silver penny valued at $35,000. Only 13 silver pennies were made..."
My Grandmother has since given me the penny to secure its worth in the rare coin market as of today. What I'd like to find out is, how much would one of these pennies we worth today? I'd appreciate any information your company could give. Thank you for your time.

Dear Mr. Hartman,
Fascinating story but there never were any U.S. cents minted on silver flans. The usual material was copper or an alloy mixed with zinc and tin. In 1973 there weren't any regular issue coins minted in silver. Dimes, quarters and half dollars ceased being minted from 90% silver alloy at the end of 1964. As the U.S. government hates creating rarities, if such a coin was surreptitiously made, it would be confiscated as soon as it was offered for sale. Officially, there are no records reflecting the minting of such a coin.
You might have a cent struck on a clad, copper-nickel dime planchet. This would be the same size, weight (2.27 grams) and color as a dime but look like an Lincoln cent. As the cent is larger than a dime, the outer part of the design would be missing. Wrong metal error, cent on clad dime blank, would bring close to $100 in the collector market.
There are some other cents that look "silver" but were made in other metals. Some examples are the 1943 cent (search 1943 on this page) minted from steel (common), a 1944 steel cent minted in error (rare) and a 1974 pattern cent minted in aluminum (very rare...only a few samples made).
I've also seen silver plated cents, but these were done outside the Mint for an unknown purpose, possibly for some promotion but these have no value. If the "silver" cent weighs 3.11 grams it's a copper cent

Ryan at rmcd16@juno.com writes: We were looking around my grandpa's house and we found his old coin collection. They're all coins from like the 1800's and we have no idea how much they're worth. How can we find out?
You could start by reading Frequently Asked Question About Coins, go to your public library and look up a coin catalog and get a book on grading coins. You can also go to your local coin shop but it would be more fun to make it your aventure!

Bryan at bairhart@peterboro.net writes: I have a coin which reads....Silver Pillar Dollar (Piece of eight) Piastre aux colonnes dnercule (Peso). That was the back of the coin...The front reads...VTRAQUE VNUM 1732. I'm very curious about this coin, could you explain it to me and possibly tell me what it may be worth?
The Spanish Milled Dollar or "Pillar" Dollar was the technological answer to the irregularly shaped "cob" coins minted in the New World (Search Pillar Dollar on this page for more info). The "coin" you have is a modern medal. 1732 was the first year of the Pillar 8 reales.
Besides the obvious commemorative first date, I don't know who issued this medal.

Dave Holland at daveholland@hotmail.com writes: I have a 1945 nickel with an "s" on the back. What is this worth?

In 1942 the U.S. government feared a shortage of copper for the war effort. Congress decided to change the alloy in the nickel from 75% copper and 25% nickel to an alloy of 56% copper, 35% silver and 9% manganese. To signify the change in alloy a large mint mark was placed above Monticello on the reverse of the coin (S=San Francisco Mint, D=Denver Mint, P=Philadelphia Mint). Even the Philadelphia mint which was usually not represented by a mint mark, was represented by a large "P". The use of the war-time alloy continued through 1945 when the original alloy was reinstated.
Note that in 1943 the cent lost its copper and was replaced by zinc coated steel. It is not widely known, but in the last years of WW II, whole companies of troops would "police" the battlefields and pick up the brass remaining from cartridges and shells. From 1944 to 1946 one cent coins were made from these cartridge casings.
The value of war time nickels depends on condition but even circulated or damaged pieces are worth more than face value. The coins contain .05626 troy oz. of pure silver. Even at $4.70/oz silver that makes a war-time nickel worth at least 26 cents.

Jeff Guevin at jkg1@cornell.edu writes: I have a U.S. note dated 1862, and entitled along the top as a "Treasury Warrant"; is is a five dollar note apparently given " for Military Service." I have been unable to find any information so far about "Treasury Warrants" and 'am wondering if you have any information or can point me in the right direction. Thanks.

There are no United States "Treasury Warrants" from 1862. The United States issued Treasury Notes periodically from 1812-1860. Generally,Treasury notes or warrants are interest bearing currency and a form of emergency money.
I think you are talking about Civil War, State issued notes. For example there is an 1862 $5 Arkansas Treasury Warrant (Black. Black person carrying cotton at l. Governor H.M. Rector at top center, dog at bottom center). Texas has an 1862 $5 Treasury Warrant also (black on green underprinting, Washington at left). It is true that troops were probably paid in warrants instead of specie (gold and silver) but civil obligations were paid with these notes too. The promise was that when things returned to normal, one would be able to trade the notes in for specie with interest.
You might consult the book Confederate and Southern States Currency Vol 1 4th Edition by Grover C. Criswell, Jr., 1992 BNR Press, 132 East Second Street, Port Clinton, Ohio 43452-115. There is a new edition but it only contains the Confederate Federal currency.

Marcey Berry at mberrry@mcmsys.com writes: I have recently been given an 1858-O Seated Liberty half dollar (no logo). It is in pretty good condition, but here's the catch. The lady who gave this to my grandma had it made into a pin sometime in the late 1800's to early 1900's. There are two soldered points on the obverse side. Can these points be removed? Is this coin worth anything, or is it now just an interesting piece of jewelry? Please respond. Thanks.

Dear Marcey,
Enjoy it as jewelry! Even though the solder could be removed by an expert in coin restoration, the work would cost more than the coin is worth (about $30-$40 in average circulated, undamaged condition). The 1858-O has a high mintage (more than seven million were minted).

Jan at jkloehn@paulbunyan.net writes: Hi, I was wondering what a 1951 penny with the 1 slanted after the 5 was worth? Thanks.

The dates on the cents were punched in by hand on the master dies in this era so every die that was made from the master and every coin minted with these dies would look exactly the same. So, the slant you described is not unusual.

Ed DeForest at d_cray@msn.com writes: I have what looks like a copper US quarter dated 1977. I'm trying to find a value for this coin. Thanks.

Quarters are made from a sandwich of an outer layer of copper-nickel bonded to an inner core of pure copper. Sometimes the sheets of metal are partially missing the bonded layer leaving a pure copper flan. This defect could be caused by gas or dirt coming between the layers of metal when it was rolled out. It is unusual to find a struck quarter with none of the copper nickel present. It could also be a quarter struck on a cent blank, but it would be very thin and the design would be incomplete. I would guesstamate that a quarter struck on a cent blank would bring $60-$100. A quarter struck on a defective quarter flan (pure copper) would bring about $25. Take your coin to a numismatic error specialist or contact the American Numismatic Association for an application to their evaluation service. Click here. to go there now.

Scott Vance at scvance@earthlink.net writes: I've recently purchased some commemorative certified coins from various sources over the net. In a few cases, I've seen MS65-66 coins that are almost black with tarnish or that have various unattractive tonings. Does eye appeal not have importance for the grading services? Also, are they as impartial in their grading as is assumed? Thanks.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder but grading is a qualitative call. Don't buy the coin, no matter what the grade, if YOU don't find it pleasing. I personally don't like black coins because they don't reflect light making it difficult to see the surface and luster. However, most coins will have some oxide coating and therefore some patina. Blazing white 19th century coins are suspect as they were probably dipped in antioxidant. Though some collectors want their coins to be untoned, dipping them will eventually ruin them. The grading services generally do a descent job considering that grading is such a subjective art. I still want to evaluate the coin myself. I guess I'm picky!
Please check out another letter below that refers to toning. Use your browser to Search toning.

OCGUITARS@ aol.com writes: From my fathers estate, I have a few coins I may be selling...........

The coins you mention are common items and this column is not exactly a price guide. I would leave that to our advertisers but here are some guidelines to help you:

• Common silver half dollars, including Walkers and 1964 Kennedys, Washington quarters and Liberty and Roosevelt dimes - about 3 times face.
• You mentioned a Seated half dollar but no date, mint or condition $5 ------>hundreds!
• Common date Morgans in average circulated grade - about $4-$5.
• Crisp 1957 silver certificates - these have gone up a bit - but still less than $2 each.
• A 1963 mint set would have every coin minted at all the mints...about $6.
• Indian head cents, circulated and Liberty nickels 10 cents to under $1.
  

  ---

  Sofia del Castillo writes: Is there a year when the US penny was not coined, during the 1900's?

  The U.S. cent has been struck every year since 1793 with only one exception. An acute shortage of copper, due to the turmoil of the war of 1812, precluded making one cent coins in 1815. In the 20th century not all Mints are represented but there is a cent for every year. See the CoinSite's Search Tool to find more articles about coins and specifically about cents by

  ---

  Victor Santoyo writes: I was planting flowers in the church yard and I found a coin. It looked like a penny but has a V on it and says cents. It is a US coin from 1903. Is this a good find? I know nothing about coins. Thanks.

  The coin you've found is a Liberty Nickel and was the 5c coin that was minted from 1883 until 1912. It was replaced by the Buffalo design.

  Though the coin has little monetary value in circulated condition, it is exciting to unexpectedly find an old coin while planting flowers. Many Liberty nickels found their way into Sunday church offerings at the turn of the century. Your nickel is one that lost its way!
  

  ---

  Barbara Snyder at BAS918@webtv.net writes: I recently received some coins my grandfather collected during WWII. I was wondering if there is anywhere a price guide I could look at on the web or if you suggest going to a dealer to have them appraised. Thanks.

  Dear Barbara,
  Generally the lots I see inherited from veterans of WWII are mostly souvenirs. Though they often contain mixes of silver and base metal coins, they are usually the most common examples of what was money at the time and place. If your grandfather was a numismatic collector he would have been discerning about his choices. Here's how you can tell:
  - If the coins are organized and are stored in individual holders, I would say that he had some numismatic skills and the collection should be appraised by a professional numismatist.
  - If the coins are simply thrown in boxes, loose, I would say that these coins are just an accumulation. You can have some fun by looking them up in The Standard Catalog of World Coins by Chester L. Krause and Clifford Mishler. Colin R. Bruce II, Editor. The latest editions are divided by century. You'll want the 20th century guide. Check at your public library, they may have a copy a few years old that will do just fine. Good Hunting!

  ---

  John Wright at jwright@sdl.usu.edu writes: I found a 1944 Mercury dime. It has a w to the right of the head, which I presume is Washington. What is it worth?

  ....about 30 cents. Check out other articles on this page that refer to bullion related items that are sold in quantity and also Frequently Asked Questions About Coins. The "W" is the intial of the designer, Adolph A. Weinman, not a Mint Mark, besides, there is no Mint in Washington.
  

  ---

  Scott Vance at scvance@earthlink.net writes: I keep seeing references to a coin's PQ. What does it mean? Thanks

  The term PQ stands for premium quality which would seem to belie the whole concept of a standardized grading system. It's a confusing term because it makes it seem that a coin described this manner is really a higher grade than it is and therefore more valuable. It is just marketing hype. A coin graded MS66 is already premium quality by definition. MS66PQ? I don't think so!
  

  ---

  Priscilla at pris@cconnect.net writes: I have a 1910 penny and would like to know its possible worth. Can you help?

  Condition is the most important pricing criteria. A average circulated 1910 cent would only bring a few cents but check for a Mint mark. For example, the 1910-S is worth $5 or so even in low grade. See also Frequently Asked Questions About Coins for more information on cents and mint marks.

  ---

  Tom Kulig at tomkatz@msn.com writes: We have a 1897 Indian Head penny in good condition, what is it worth? Thank you

  ...Less than a dollar. Please check out Frequently Asked Questions About Coins for more information about U.S. Indian cents
  

  ---

  Wayne Paradis at wparad41@maine.maine.edu writes: I own a 1859 penny from Canada (probably in the condition of EF-40). How much would this be worth? Thank you

  Dear Wayne,
  The date is very common and has one of the highest 19th century mintages but there are three date varieties that would bring far more than the dollar or so that a normal 1859 would bring. The most valuable of these is the 1859 over 8 Narrow 9, worth about $200 in EF40. It's easier to identify these varieties if you see pictures of the dates and overdates. I suggest buying a copy of Charlton Standard Catalogue of Canadian Coins. It has excellent photos that will make it easy to see if your coin matches one of the more valuable varieties. You should be able to order it through your local book store or coin shop.

  ---

  Danny Cordery at mcordery@3-cities.com writes: I'm ten and would like to find out what a memorial reverse penny is. Could you please tell me? Thank you

  Dear Danny,
  Please click on Frequently Asked Question About Coins for the answer to your question.

  ---

  Sandy Davis at ssd1@ra.msstate.edu writes: Who was Opus Frazier?

  Dear Sandy,
  Many time the word Opus precedes the name of the artist on a three dimensional piece of work such as on a sculpture. Opus is Latin for "work" or "work by". Though I'm not familiar with Frazier, I do know of James E. Fraser that designed the U.S. Buffalo nickel.

  ---

  Debbie at melody@prolog.net writes: I have a 1966 Canadian Canoe dollar, but I can't tell if it has small or large beads. They look small, but I don't know what they look like if they're large. Can you help me?

  Dear Debbie,
  As you probably know that the small bead variety is worth a bushel of Canadian dollars but the large bead variety is, well, a hockey puck. Here is the way you can tell:
  -In the large bead variety the apex (point) of the letter "A" in REGINA points to a bead.
  -In the small bead variety the apex of the the letter "A" in REGINA points between two beads.
  Good Luck! The Soapbox.

  ---

  Keith R. Monahan at monahan@iserv.net writes: I would like help identifying a coin given to me. On the obverse is a right facing male portrait and the words CAROLUS II DEI GRATIA. The date is 17?9 ( a hole has been drilled or punched obscuring the third digit). The reverse features a coat of arms and the words HISPAN ETIN? REX M 4R??M. Would you be able to assist me in identifying this coin? Thanks.

  The coin is a Spanish Colonial 4 Reales. The coin has to have been minted under Charles III (1759-1788) not Charles II (1665-1700) and it was minted at the Lima Peru Mint and therefore the complete date would be 1779 as "DEI GRATIA" instead of " D.G." appears exclusively on the Lima and Potosi issues of this period. The assayer is M.I.

  The obverse legend is CAROLUS III DEI GRATIA 1779 (Charles III By The Grace of God). The reverse legend continues HISPAN*ET*IND*REX*ME*4R*M.I. (King of Spain and the Indies - Lima - 4 Reales * Assayer's Initials=M.I.)

  It is not unusual to find holed silver coins from Peru. The local indians were indoctrinated by the Spaniards into using "money" but the indians had no wallets or pockets. They hole the coins and hung them on leather thongs. They didn't understand that the coins were intrinsic and punching holes in them lowered their monetary value. A lot of people got hot under the breech cloth when they were asked to fork up a few more reales to make up the difference.